Web store temporally unavailable

Our web store will be unavailable until we recover the normality in stock.

We apologize for the inconvenience.

Totem Team

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New prices for 2013

Those are the new prices for 2013 (you will already find those updated prices in our web store):

  • Totem Cam:
    • UK: 59,95£
    • Europe: 74,95€
    • US, Canada and rest of the world: 79,95$
  • Basic cam:
    • UK: 49,95£
    • Europe: 64,95€
    • US, Canada and rest of the world: 69,95$

This year our objective is to reach to more climbers, and we want to get the collaboration of retails stores. The cams will be closer to the hands of the climbers community, but a bit more expensive.

Totem is growing the production and learning to make the cams in a more efficient way. That was essential in the objective to be available where the climber is accustomed to find his favorite gear.

We take the opportunity to thank everybody who has helped us in this hard start (we climb much less than we would like!!). Today our products have started to gain a reputation based on their features and good quality. We expect to be improving on this way.

Enjoy your climbs and be safe!

Totem Team

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Review: Andy Kirkpatrick

Clicking on the picture you will find the Review made by Andy Kirkpatrick about the Totem Cams. We are always glad to hear your opinions!!!

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Video: Poseidon (7a). Capo Pecora (Sardignia)

A great video of Maurizio Oviglia climbing the trad route “Poseidon” (7a) at Capo Pecora (Sardignia).

POSEIDON from Maurizio Oviglia on Vimeo.

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New Route on Tour du Marboré: Hiperamort!!! (7a max., 300mts)

Recientemente, Manu Cordova ya avanzaba en su blog la noticia sobre la apertura de una nueva vía en la Torre de Marboré (Gavarnie) que este verano había llevado a cabo junto a Ekaitz Maiz. El propio Ekaitz nos ha enviado el croquis definitivo de esta nueva joya de la escalada pirenáica, abierta en el día, con un estilo impecable y sin utilizar siquiera cuerda auxiliar. Una actividad sólo al alcance de los más comprometidos que nos ha dejado una preciosa línea para todo aquel que se quiera enfrentar a esta mole rocosa de roca excelente. La vía está dedicada a Pau Escalé de 300 metros de recorrido y 7a de grado máximo. HIPERAMORT!!! Bravo por los aperturistas. Zorionak!!

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Retentum: Una Indeseable Obra Maestra (por Martín Elias)

Martin Elias (miembro del Equipo Totem) nos envía el siguiente texto sobre el intento de repetición de la vía “Retentum” abierta recientemente en el Circo de Troumouse que nos avisa del tipo de gente que anda suelta por el Pirineo haciendo de las suyas!! Seguir sus pasos exigirá afrontar nuestros miedos y contradicciones con todas nuestras fuerzas…

Retentum

Esta vía me recuerda al bar que está debajo de casa de mi hermano, en el pleno centro de Logroño, una pequeña tasca, un tanto amarillenta, y con personajes de lo más curioso, así es esta vía; igual que los emparedados de detrás del sucio mostrador, que debido a nuestra percepción de lo bueno y lo malo no nos atrevemos a pedir uno, pero cuando ves a tu companero de barra, ese tipo enorme con cresta que saborea uno de ellos y que su cara tiene un gesto placentero, esto te anima a comerte uno de esos suculentos aperitivos; efectivamente, así es esta vía, asi es Retentum. Algo más que un aperitivo.


Retentun es la última vîa abierta en el Circo de Troumouse, obra de la cordada Catalana más imparable del momento, y digo esto porque actualmente circulan con un vehîculo que dudo mucho que haya pasado la inspección técnica, y de los cuales prefiero no dar nombres en caso de que alguno de ellos esté en busca y captura.

El circo de Troumuse se está convirtiendo en el centro neurálgico de las vías más indeseables del Pirineo, entre ellas cabe destacar la terrorífica Substance Ordinarie d’une fin de Siecle, o la completamente desastrosa obra de Despiau al Pic Heid, en la que se recomienda llevar un espitador en caso de que se haya desmoronado un cacho de montaña, entre toda esta basura nuestros amigos encontraron un lógico y divertido itinerario en el Mont Arrouy a la derecha del diedro Despiau, una serie de placas grises de difîcil protección.

Efectivamente son tipos profesionales, habían conseguido no pagar en ninguno de los parkings que el ayuntamiento de este pueblo-decorado impone durante los meses estivales, contentos vienen a Pau y nos relatan todos los pasajes clave, juntos escalamos por la zona y hacemos las visitas obligadas en la cuidad gala.

Para que empeceis a encuadrar a estos tipos, cuando entraron en casa lo primero que hicieron fue rebuscar en la biblioteca, y al cabo de unos minutos ya tenían cada uno su obra elegida, pero el libro que más les gustó fue sin duda; Arte, Poesía y Anarquismo, de Herbert Read, un escritor inglés del periodo de entreguerras, hacía ya tiempo que habíamos abandonado las estúpidas conversaciones de escalada, ahora los temás se vuelven interesantes: política, amor y gastronomía, Así pasaron las horas y las carcajadas eran tan sonoras que el llongueras del vecino aturdido por tanta diversión nos llamó la atención con la estúpida escusa del ruido del gallinero (tenemos tres gallinas en el jardín), yo creo que en realidad le molestaba tanta jovialidad en el vecindario.

Nuestros amigos se han marchado, volvieron al pais de los peajes y nosotros nos quedamos con la responsabilidad de repetir su vía.

En Pau, los escaladores son bastantes y muy buenos, pero idiotas somos sólo un pequeño grupo. El miedo ya no está de moda, esto hace que el encontrar compañeros de escalada sea cada vez más difîcil. Finalmente un granjero y un aspirante a guía serían los compañeros ideales, Vencent y Florent, tipos duros y amantes de las vías bizarras.

De la vía qué deciros: una obra maestra en su estilo, no es un recorrido que busque la estética a primera vista, busca la aventura, igual que sus aperturistas, busca la lucha con uno mismo, es el reflejo de sus vivencias y de la cantidad de libros que han leido.

Cuando repetimos la vía no pudimos terminar la escalada debido a una mala caida en el octavo largo que nos hizo abandonar y volver a encontrarnos con nosotros mismos como cada vez que una montaña te pone en tu sitio. Sin duda es una escalada compleja y comprometida, que como decia Vencent, esta vía le hubiera gustado a Bunny.


 

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Basic Cam 0.55 and Removable Bolt Ø10mm: next steps on climbing protection

Summertime has been an important period in Totem MT’s short history. We started commercializing the Totem Cams on August 2010 and we launched Basic Cams on July 2011. So, continuing with the objective of designing and manufacturing high performance climbing gear this year July Totem MT would like to share the steps that is making in rock climbing protection devices: Basic Cam 0.55 (blue size with internal cam springs) and the Removable Bolt Ø10mm.

These two new products are already in a testing phase and will need more evolution. We are convinced that final users of rock climbing protection gear have a valuable knowledge that if it’s shared, would be beneficial for the entire climbers community. We do our bit on it. Do not hesitate to do yours!

Basic Cam 0.55 (blue size with internal cam springs)

From the beginning of Basic Cam design our goal was to complete the range up to the black size, but as you all know we are still manufacturing up to green size. Why? In smaller sizes, the traditional spiral spring does not fit. The easy solution was to use the even more traditional torsion spring between cam lobes, leading to wider cam head. Just in smaller sizes, wider cam head!!! Not good. So we started to work on change the spiral spring design to fit it into lobes. It’s not easy. Let see…

We designed a mixed torsion-spiral spring that takes up the space of two torsion spring coils and two spiral coils.

Theoretically all was done but… the real world is usually harder than theory.  This design is hard to produce with the appropriate size control, so little changes were done to become it easier to manufacture. The result of this first approach: even the spring worked, it did not pass the fatigue test. We are now attempting a second approach with the same idea.

Removable Bolt Ø10mm

After several request from climbers we decided to give to this product a chance. The first concern was that this product was not new: Climb Tech is already commercializing them from 1/2″ size and they have the U.S. Patent. So, we contacted them to ask if they were planing to do it in 10mm and sell it in Europe. Although is not clear their intention about manufacturing them in metric sizes we both conclude that there was no obstacle to produce and sell them outside USA so… we started to work on it.

The first prototypes are already being tested (and are almost destroyed from what we gather). We feel that this product will be welcomed and at same time it could create some controversy about it’s use. Our point of view below:

- The removable bolts are very useful tools to bolt overhanging sport climbing routes to keep us close to the wall making only a drilled hole, avoiding the need to use some other fixed gear that needs to be removed or replaced afterwards.

- Removable Bolts open the option to make first ascents in hard slabs carrying less weigh. Most surely, the need to use Removable Bolts in route repeats is not a good idea. But we know that strong climbers are already doing their first ascents carrying the drill with them (without the help of an auxiliary rope) and Removable Bolts give them the option to leave the hammer in the belay. The partner could place the bolts more safely than the leader!

These two new products will be available as soon as they met our quality requirements and get the CE certificate. Keep on climbing!!

Posted in Technical Explanations | 10 Comments

Totem Cam Video Review: Outdoor Gear Lab

As we wrote in the following post: http://www.totemcams.com/blog/archives/1529 we are not agree with the Totem Cams review made by Outdoor Gear Lab (http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Camming-Device-Reviews/Totem-Cam). Now, the video review has been just released, including similar appraissals and valuations to those provided in the review already known. Judge for yourselves. We will, in any case, glad to hear your opinions and evaluations!

Posted in Opinions, Reviews, Technical Explanations, Videos | 7 Comments

Totem MT at Hermida Vertical 2012

El fin de semana del 15 al 17 de junio se celebró el evento Hermida Vertical 2012 y representantes de Totem MT asistimos al interesante encuentro que tenía en su programa un variado número de actividades (Concurso de cortos, masterclass de autoprotección a cargo de David Palmada “Pelut”, proyecciones del propio Pelut y Adolfo Madinabeitia, Slackline y Highline, encuentro de escalada, clases de iniciación, salidas de montaña, barbacoa, etc.).

Además de poder mostrar a todos los escaladores nuestros productos desde nuestro humilde expositor tuvimos ocasión de escalar un poco y sobre todo de compartir buenos momentos con nuestros amigos y colaboradores: Manu Cordova, David Palmada “Pelut”, Adolfo Madinabeitia y Ekaitz Maiz, con los que pudimos disfrutar de un evento en un lugar privilegiado tanto para la escalada deportiva como de la escalada en pared como es el Desfiladero de la Hermida.

Esperamos que el evento continúe en el futuro en la línea marcada hasta el momento con una muy buena organización y una variada e interesante oferta de actividades para todos los públicos. Felicidades a la organización. Nos vemos el próximo año!!

Más información en:

http://www.facebook.com/hermidavertical#!/hermidavertical

http://blogs.barrabes.com/post.asp?idPost=5613

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Jeff Mercier Joins the Totem Team

Totem MT recently started collaborating with Jeff Mercier, one of the most active climbers in the Alps that has been carrying impressive ascents in different climbing disciplines and enjoying the life surrounded by big mountains. From Totem MT we are really grateful to Jeff for his desire to join the Totem Team. We asked Jeff if he could send us his climbing CV in order to write this introductory post. We loved the writing he sent us, so we are going to reproduce it without changes. Thanks Jeff for all!!

I´m 41 years old and happy father of 3 boys: Titouan 9, Pablo, 6 and Gabin, 3.

I live in Chamonix where I work as mountain rescuer for the PGHM, I’m Alpine Guide too. I have chosen to work for the PGHM because it is one of the only jobs where you just help people without asking questions, and you don’t need need money from them. The Alpinist calls you, you go, you rescue them and you go back with them to the valley, and all of this is free. It’s not like in Switzerland, and sometimes in Italy, where people have to pay a lot for the rescue.

For 10 years now, I have practiced dry tooling which is the most pumping activity I know, sometimes you can spend 1 hour on a 30 meters route. I have climbed a lot of very hard short pitches up to grade M14+/15, 3 years ago. “Bichette” was the first in the world,  close to Grenoble at l’Usine. I did a lot of extrem route all over the world like “Jedi mind trick”, M14 in Colorado”, “The Game” M13 in Canada, “No limit” M13 in Switzerland, “Game Over” 12+ in Austria, “DTS Spirit” 12 in the UK…

Underlying it all, my objective is to climb the hardest routes of the Alps. The first stage took place in La Gabarou/Silvy. We achieved the first on-site ascent. After it, I have done the first free ascent of the “Couloir Nord Direct” des Drus. Last automn, we climbed “No Siesta”, the famous mixed route in the North face of Les Grandes Jorasses. I’m really keen on that kind of climb and hope i will climb a lot of others.


I’m so keen that I have discover The perfect place for training. It’s really  close from the Les Grands Montets, 10 minutes skiing and after that a solid day of climb. No bolt, no belay, 4 pitons in 4 routes… 2 racks of cam required !

When the snow leaves, Chamonix become the best place for crack climbing, each 2 meters you find a new one. Come on and play !


For 20 years I have lived in mountain areas and I’m fond of every activity you can do there. I started with rock climbing but now I practise different disciplines like aid climbing and ice climbing. I love Chamonix but I love to go climbing everywhere in the world. My best memories are in Nepal for the nights we spent on a rock face with 2 other friends with a view of Everest. Then there was Canada with its incredible ice falls and also the atmosphere in hockey matches! Yosemite for the long trip (sometimes too long!) in rock ocean. Scotland for the colour of the landscape and face of the long hairs cows!!

My dream is very simple: climbing the longest and best that I can and hoping that my wife will always be patient. But before all this, I must teach to my children how to become men and this is my “over all” challenge.

CV
Free climbing: Best run 8a on site, best place: Les Calanques de Marseille
Ice climbing
: Best run, grade 6+ called La Lyre, best place: Sixt-Fer a Cheval.
Artificial climbing: A3+, best place, Yosemite.
Alpinism
: “No Siesta”, “Walker”,  ”Mac intyre” in les Grandes Jorasses, “Divine providence” at the Pilier d’angle, “Pilier Bonatti”, ”Directe américaine” “Piere ALLAIN”, “Couloir Nord”, “Couloir Nord Direct”, “Direct Tchéque” au Dru, Face nord des droites, “Beyond the good and the evil” and “Pélerinage” au Peigne, directe de la Meije, face nord du Rateau.
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